Zürich has a reputation problem. Ask most travellers and they will tell you it is a city of banks, expensive watches, and not much else. Spend a weekend here, though, and a different city emerges: one of lake swims at sunrise, industrial quarters turned into galleries, and some of the best coffee in central Europe.
Day One: Old Town and the Lake
Start early at Grossmünster, the twin-towered church that anchors the old town. The climb up the Karlsturm costs a few francs and rewards you with the best view in the city: the Limmat river below, the Alps on the horizon, and the lake stretching south like a sheet of hammered silver. From there, wander the Niederdorf’s cobbled lanes before the shops open, when the quarter still belongs to delivery bikes and bakers.
For lunch, skip the tourist cafés along the river and head to a workers’ canteen turned lunch spot in Kreis 4. A plate of Zürcher Geschnetzeltes — veal in cream sauce with crispy rösti — will set you back less than you fear, and more than you hoped. Afternoons belong to the lake. Locals swim from the wooden platforms at Seebad Utoquai from May to September; in winter, the same crowd sits in the sauna boats moored along the shore.
Day Two: Zürich West
The city’s former industrial district is where Zürich stops being polite. Under the railway viaduct, arches that once stored coal now house bakeries, wine bars, and a food market. The Löwenbräukunst complex stacks three galleries inside an old brewery, and the Freitag tower — built from stacked shipping containers — sells bags made from recycled truck tarps to a queue of design tourists.
- Take tram 4 or 13 to Escher-Wyss-Platz and walk from there
- The Prime Tower’s 35th-floor bar has the best aperitivo view
- Frau Gerolds Garten is the summer spot for outdoor drinks
- Im Viadukt market hall closes at 8pm on weekdays
Zürich is the only city I know where you can attend a gallery opening, swim in drinking-water-clean river, and catch a night train to three different countries — all in the same evening.
Budget note: Zürich is unapologetically expensive, but the ZürichCARD (27 CHF for 24 hours) covers all public transport and most museum entries. Tap water is excellent everywhere, and the 1,200 public fountains all run with drinking water — bring a bottle and skip the 5-franc café refills.
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